Description
The wine
The Clos Vougeot was enclosed by Cistercian monks in the 12th century and has been one of Burgundy’s most storied Grand Crus ever since. At 50 hectares it is also one of the largest — and the most variable. Divided among more than 80 owners, the quality difference between a parcel near the château at the top of the slope and one near the road at the bottom is considerable. The soils, drainage, and exposure all change significantly from one end to the other. Position within the Clos is everything.
Mark Haisma farms a parcel in the upper section — the zone closest to the medieval château, where the soils are thinner, the drainage better, and the concentration more intense than the lower-lying parcels near the road. He reached this parcel after losing his Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru when the grower decided to sell — the Clos Vougeot was the parcel he found to replace it, and the relationship with this grower has been the foundation of the wine since.
The approach is the same as across the entire Haisma range — careful sorting, slow fermentation, gentle handling throughout — with 18 months in old oak. No new wood.
2021 was a challenging vintage across the Côte de Nuits — severe spring frosts reduced yields significantly in many parcels. The upper section of the Clos Vougeot, being well-drained and well-positioned on the slope, was less affected than lower-lying parcels. The reduced crop load from the frost concentrated what remained. The 2021 is leaner and more precise than the 2022 — a vintage for patience. At four years from harvest it is just beginning to open. Drink from 2028 through 2038.
The 2022 vintage is also available — a warmer, more immediately generous expression of the same parcel.
Tasting notes
Deep ruby with a slightly more translucent quality than the 2022. Red cherry, cassis, a hint of violet and mineral earthiness on the nose — the precision and focus characteristic of a cooler Côte de Nuits vintage in the upper Clos. The palate is structured and tightly wound with firm tannins that need time to resolve, excellent acidity, and a long mineral finish. More restrained than the 2022 and more age-worthy for it. Do not open now without decanting for at least three hours — or better, wait. Drink 2027–2038.
Service: 17°C after extended decanting. Beef in sauce, game birds, roast lamb, aged hard cheeses.
2021 vintage note
2021 was a challenging vintage — severe spring frosts dramatically reduced yields across the Côte de Nuits. For the upper section of the Clos Vougeot, the well-drained limestone soils and elevated position provided some protection, and the reduced crop load concentrated the remaining fruit. The 2021 Haisma Clos Vougeot is the leaner, more focused version of this wine — built for the long term rather than early drinking.
About Mark Haisma
Mark Haisma is an Australian-born winemaker based in Gevrey-Chambertin since 2007. He trained at Yarra Yering in Victoria before moving to Burgundy, where he built a micro-négociant operation from a rented cellar into one of the most sought-after small productions in the Côte de Nuits.
